Might be an interesting read for some. Thanks to Melissa for the link.
The name Max Mara doesn't resonate with American women the way Giorgio Armani's does, but the Max Mara company outsells Armani around the world. At last count, it was $906 million to $846 million annually. Why? Because the clothes offer timely fashion in luxury fabrics at less than astronomical prices.
Still less known is Marina Rinaldi, Max Mara's plus-size division, but by bringing youthful styling to a category that was once dowdy and matronly, it has gone far to change the way women who wear large sizes dress.
Max Mara offers Italian-made clothing in silk, cashmere, alpaca, leather and other fine fabrics, the same caliber of materials found in designer clothing but at lower prices. If a woman wants a cashmere blazer, say, she can find one with a Max Mara label for less than $1,000, as opposed to at least $2,000 for one with a designer name attached to it. While the company is known for its classics, it also hops on trends like the leather skirts and jackets and the mirror appliques in its spring 1999 collection.
Marina Rinaldi also uses cashmere, silk and leather, generally in sophisticated colors like gray, camel and black, in clothes with simple slenderizing lines. Some of its new customers remember when large-size clothing meant pastel polyester pants suits and tentlike dresses with flounces. Marina Rinaldi was in the vanguard of companies that brought fashion to the category.
''Max Mara is not cutting edge, but classic fashionable clothing in beautiful fabrics,'' said Lynne Ronan, a senior vice president and general merchandise manager of Saks Fifth Avenue, which has an in-store Max Mara boutique and sells the Marina Rinaldi collection in its plus-size department, Salon Z. Marina Rinaldi's prices range from $250 for a skirt to $5,000 for a mink-trimmed coat. Sizes are 10 to 22.
''The plus-size customer wants to look exactly like everybody else,'' Ms. Ronan said. ''We work with a lot of manufacturers to put more fashion into the clothes. Marina Rinaldi is an important resource for us. It's a high-quality product, beautifully made, and it has the right fit.''
For many years, fit was a prime concern in the plus-size category, one that the Max Mara company recognized early on. ''We started making large sizes in 1979,'' Luigi Maramotti, the co-managing director of Max Mara, said on a recent trip to New York. ''What we did was what everybody else was doing: stretch from regular sizes. But that is totally wrong.''
Sizing patterns upward in the usual way results in overly broad shoulders and long sleeves, low waistlines and baggy crotches in pants. But women who wear size 16 or 18 aren't necessarily taller than a size 8. Mode, the magazine for plus-size women, estimates that 62 percent of American women wear size 12 or larger. (Not all those women can afford Marina Rinaldi or comparable prices and still have a hard time finding fashionable clothes.)
So Max Mara set up an independent company devoted to perfecting pattern-making and called it Marina Rinaldi, after Mr. Maramotti's great-great-grandmother, who owned a dress shop. There are now 170 Marina Rinaldi company-owned boutiques in Europe, Asia and the Middle East, as well as in-store boutiques in Bloomingdale's, Saks and Bergdorf Goodman. The label represents about 20 percent of Max Mara's business.
Max Mara has ambitious plans to make both the Max Mara and Marina Rinaldi lines important players in the United States, as they already are in many countries around the world with 700 company-owned stores.
The big push started in 1994, with the opening of a Max Mara boutique on 68th Street and Madison Avenue. That was followed by 14 more stores around the country, by the doubling in size this fall of the Manhattan store, the opening of a Marina Rinaldi store on Madison Avenue last month and the arrival this month of Max Mara and Marina Rinaldi boutiques on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. A party in Los Angeles on Dec. 3 will celebrate the opening of the two boutiques. A dinner will follow a private screening of a restored version of the 1948 film ''Joan of Arc'' starring Ingrid Bergman. The co-chairwomen of the event are Jodie Foster, Isabella Rossellini and Winona Ryder.
Richard Avedon photographed the current Max Mara advertising campaign, which features the model Maggie Rizer with a Joan of Arc hairdo. Marina Rinaldi's ads, with the slogan ''Style is not a size . . . it's an attitude,'' has a whimsical quality, with a healthy-looking model making gravity-defying leaps. The ads run in fashion magazines and on billboards and bus shelters.
All this is in aid of a company that has never set the fashion world on fire yet managed to attract customers like Ms. Rossellini, Minnie Driver and C. Z. Guest.
Marina Rinaldi is the first plus-size line to be carried by Bergdorf's, said Joseph Boitano, the store's executive vice president and general merchandise manager.
''We'd always done some large sizes, but mostly on a special-order basis,'' he said. ''We knew we had a customer who wore large sizes and could buy other things here, but not ready-to-wear. So we went into the market knowing that anything we bought had to be on a par with the quality of the rest of the store. Marina Rinaldi is at that level.''
For spring, Bergdorf's will add the new Rebecca Moses large-size line as a complement to Marina Rinaldi, he said.
The Marina Rinaldi stores at 800 Madison Avenue (between 67th and 68th Streets) and at 319 Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills are the first in this country, and will be watched closely by the parent company, Mr. Maramotti said, to determine whether more will follow. The line has already found fans in Rosie O'Donnell, Roseanne Barr (who dropped $10,000 in one visit to Madison Avenue), Star Jones and Camryn Manheim.
Max Mara, which started in Italy in 1951 as one of the first fashion houses to offer ready-made clothes to Italian women, was founded by Mr. Maramotti's father, Achille. It is still family-owned, with Luigi's brother, Ignazio, sharing the title of managing director and their sister, Ludovica, chairwoman of one of the family's six manufacturing firms.
All the clothing is made in company-owned factories, three of which are in Reggio Emilia, where the company is based. Max Mara is now the largest ready-to-wear company in Italy, producing 20 collections. Among them are Sportmax, younger and more fashion-forward than Max Mara; Weekend, which is casual, and Pianoforte, the evening-wear division. Prices range from $450 to $650 for jackets, $800 to $2,000 for coats.
Unlike other old-line houses looking to glamorize their images and increase sales by hiring high-profile designers, Max Mara depends on an anonymous design team headed by Laura Lusuardi. Mr. Maramotti says his company is more interested in quality than fashion, yet Max Mara regularly presents its namesake collection and Sportmax on the runways in Milan during the semiannual show seasons. The lines are reviewed as seriously as those of Armani, Versace and Gucci, though not with the same superlatives.
Yet the company's sales in this country have increased 500 percent since 1994, and with more boutiques set to open, the Maramottis' hopes are high that the company's profile will also keep growing.